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Reports and Experiences of the Godspeed Staff

Haiti, October 2004

"...pou m bay moun mon Siyon ki nan lafliksyon yo, ke kontan nan plas lapenn yo, kontantman nan plan ke sere yo a. M'ap mete nan bouch yo chante remesiman nan plas chante plenyen."
Ezayi 61:3, Haitian Bible (Creole language)


"...to appoint unto them that mourn in Zion, to give unto them beauty for ashes, the oil of joy for mourning, the garment of praise for the spirit of heaviness."
Isaiah 61:3, KJV.


The initial ride to church is challenging enough, entering the center of the city of Cap Haitien on a road more remarkable for bathtub-size potholes than any useful stretch of pavement. Hundreds, thousands of people line the streets in an unending stream of street vendors, ubiquitous lottery booths, and groups of men clustered around tables, playing cards. I see one old man (at least he appears ancient; poverty and illness can accelerate the appearance of age) in tattered clothes twice his size, trudging along, carrying a sack of potatoes on his head more than equal his weight; when our eyes meet briefly I catch a glimpse of the chasm of difference between his world and mine. Trucks, busses, bicycles, motorcycles, men pushing wheelbarrows and pulling carts, jaywalking pedestrians all vie for space on the road, but there is actually less traffic than usual. Diesel and gas fuel are in short supply, as the road from Port au Prince is still largely impassable.

The recent hurricane brought torrential rains, and the sea-level city of Gonaives located south of Cap is still flooded in parts. Transport trucks cannot get through chest-deep waters that cover sections of the road from Port to Cap, and families that lost everything in the flood are still digging belongings and bodies out of the mud. We turn off the "main" road, and wind our way toward the banks of an estuary that meanders out of the harbor. The words "squalor" and "slum" would have already come to mind and been found wanting, so now what we see begs for deeper, more powerful or at least more pungent descriptors. Our missionary host nudges the car through a sea of people and turns into an alley that I would have never noticed. We go a few blocks further past one-room cement block homes with bedspreads strung as doors, the occupants sitting outside to escape the heat. We arrive at the end of the road, or at least what is the end of the road for now. Just in front of us is a trash heap that stretches into the water. Goats, pigs, and children all share the mound; one little boy who cannot be more than two (perhaps older; the same stressors that accentuate age can delay the growth process in a child), naked, wanders off the mound and comes up and just stares at me.

At the end of this road, just to the right, is a cinderblock building; we enter and ascend concrete steps. A portable generator (using precious gasoline) on the ground level is noisy, but the sound is blocked by other auditory input when we reach the second floor. A large sanctuary: open block walls that allow ventilation, a corrugated metal roof on 2 x 4 joists, rows of wooden benches, filled with about 200 people ranging from the very young to the very old. This is Sunday School; people sit according to their designated Sunday School class, all in the same large room, each class with its teacher standing in front of their respective group lecturing at full volume, with their students responding at similar level.

"These are the prayers of the saints", I am reminded as I am overwhelmed with a wave of voices of everyone talking simultaneously. The pastor then takes the pulpit and one by one asks each group to stand, to sing the song and recite the scriptural verse they have learned today, and to answer questions about the lesson they have just been presented. This segues into the main worship service, with different groups coming forward to sing, the congregation singing hymns in French and Creole, the pastor launching into a prayer that is part song, part chant; most of the adults in the crowd are also praying out loud, and again the sounds of many different voices all praying and praising at the same time fills the room. A single electrical cord from the downstairs generator snakes upward to run an amplifier so the pastor can be heard. There is an electric keyboard for accompaniment, but the pianist struggles as the norm is for everyone to start singing first, with his task to then find a matching chord, sometimes successfully, sometimes not. The pastor's father had just been buried the day before, so he thanks the church for their caring and prayers and turns the pulpit over to a visiting pastor who has had time to prepare a sermon. The text: Micah 6:6, having to do with sacrifices that the Lord truly desires: justice, kindness, humility. She exhorts the people to love each other better, to be more giving, to be less proud. I am astounded and convicted; these people have almost nothing and their circumstances are certainly humble, yet the message is to be more other-focused and encouraging. An announcement is made concerning the donations of clothing that the congregation is sending to their sister churches in Gonaives. Out of nothing of their own, out of their own poverty and lack, they are giving to others.

But that is just how this church is even here. The ground on which it stands was once part of the estuary, gradually filled over months and years with garbage, a spontaneous landfill. The garbage dump that is only feet away from the front door is an extension of the same process. On the land where we now stand and worship, in the past other pigs and goats and naked children foraged. Over time the small group of Christians who could never afford land for a church created their own. And now God has taken the refuse and offal of the past and transformed it into a foundation for this house of worship. Beauty for ashes. Oil of gladness for mourning. I am blessed to see this garment of praise.

Haiti is a country still devastated by political unrest, grinding poverty, and the effects of repeated storms both meteorological and spiritual. The missionaries I have come to see are working in an atmosphere of uncertainty and at times personal threat. The country needs your prayers, the missionaries do as well. Yet there is hope, evidenced in the growth of the number of Christians, in the faithfulness of those who serve and teach and nurture them, and in the very existence of a church that arose out of nothing. I am grateful to each of you who have made it possible for me to be here; your prayers and notes are incredibly meaningful. I look forward to hearing from you...

Godspeed,

Barney, for Karen and the Godspeed team

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